A Night at The Bristol

So my dear friend and fellow-foodie, Nadine, invited me to a first-timer dinner at The Bristol this weekend. We were taking her nephew, whom I adore, for a bite before seeing a movie. Both Nadine and I were eager to try The Bristol as we'd both heard and read good things about it.

Upon first entering the space, I liked the general vibe. This gastropub had a warm atmosphere with full floor-to-ceiling windows (that must open during the summer months) all along the wall facing the street. There was an eat-in bar and a long wall with banquet seating (always a favorite). The chairs were the sleek, modern aluminum classics. Nice.

Once seated, I immediately noticed a desperate need for candles at the table. Not only could I not read the menu (way too dark - ambiance is one thing, but this was something else completely) but it would have added a nice, warm glow to the place, which had a definite chill. (It could have been the aluminum chairs - they looked great, but were cold as hell to sit on!) Oh, and I will say that the sound in the place was a bit much. I could barely hear or converse with my dinner mates across the table ... that gets annoying after about 10 seconds!

The server was great - very knowledgeable, explaining the dishes and what to expect (e.g. mostly small plates for sharing). We ordered a glass of Malbec ($9) each (lovely) and placed an order for some immediate grub - I was starving! We had the duck fat fries with house-made ketchup and garlic aoli ($5). While the price was right, I was expecting the fries to burst with flavor but instead was underwhelmed. They were unremarkable - sorry.

Moving, on, we tried the grilled octopus ($11) and the flatbread with bacon and sweet onions ($6). For those of you familiar with my review of Ibiza in Houston, TX, you'll know that I like me some good, grilled octopus and, sadly, this just didn't hit the mark. As for the flatbread with bacon you'd think, "Bacon? How can you go wrong, right?" Well, I'll tell you - by not putting enough on to even detect the bacon flavor! Again, another disappointment - not horrible, just not great or memorable.

Our younger dining companion, Aram, went for the stuffed chicken wings with chorizo and blue cheese ($8). These at least had flavor, although, I didn't really get the "chicken wing" part at all - I could barely taste chicken - mostly just chorizo. This was the winner of the three appetizers.

Moving on to mains, Aram ordered the burger ($10), which came with another side of those unamazing duck fat fries. He liked the burger overall, but said it tasted sweet - he couldn't quite put a finger on what it was. Mediocre review by the boy.

Nadine ordered sardines (ewww), but she said they were a hit. That's what she got - a plate of two, decently-sized sardines with a few greens on it ($12? I can't remember). The best course of the night for her. I can't comment- the thought of little fish and eyeballs makes me gag - bleck!

I went for the boar ragu over pappardelle ($11). I have to say, this was really good. It didn't need seasoning, like everything else we had had up to that point. It was full of flavor. The pappardelle was fresh, the ragu just enough. Very satisfying indeed.

By this time, there was no time for dessert so we boogied to our movie, er, at least we tried to make it (that's another story all together!).

Bottom line, I'm in no rush to go back to The Bristol. That's a shame, really, because I had such high hopes for the place. The interior was nicely designed, but needed more heat (most patrons had their jackets on - clue #1 to turn the heat up!). Everything needed more seasoning or acid - just something was lacking. It simply turned out to be a disappointing, unmemorable visit.

But, check it out for yourself, if you wish. Here are the details:


The Bristol
2152 N Damen Ave (at Shakespeare)
Chicago 60647
Phone: 773-862-5555
http://www.thebristolchicago.com/